Skin and Hair
Chapped Lips That Will Not Heal? What to Stop Using and What Actually Works
Why won't your chapped lips heal, even though you keep using lip balm? Often it is the balm. Many popular balms contain ingredients like menthol, camphor, fragrance or mint flavor that can irritate lips. A dermatologist told Prevention in October 2026 that the first step is to stop using irritating products, then restore moisture and seal it in. [1]
Short answer
- Stop: licking your lips and using tingly or flavored balms.
- Use: a plain balm with petrolatum, shea butter, ceramides or dimethicone.
- Apply: many times a day and before bed.
- Protect: use lip SPF outside.
- Add: a humidifier at night.
Common causes
Dermatologist Dr. Peterson Pierre told Prevention chapped lips can come from: [1]
- Cold or dry air
- Sunburn
- Skincare products moving onto your lips
- Irritating lip products
- Constant lip licking
- Vitamin deficiencies, some medications, dehydration or eczema
Ingredients to avoid
Prevention listed these from American Academy of Dermatology guidance: [1]
- Camphor
- Eucalyptus
- Flavoring, especially cinnamon, citrus, mint or peppermint
- Fragrance
- Lanolin
- Menthol
- Octinoxate or oxybenzone
- Phenol (or phenyl)
- Propyl gallate
- Salicylic acid
Dr. Pierre also said to pause strong actives like retinoids and harsh exfoliants if they are reaching your lips. [1]
Ingredients that help
The same guidance listed: castor seed oil, ceramides, dimethicone, hemp seed oil, mineral oil, petrolatum, shea butter, white petroleum jelly, and mineral sun filters like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. [1]
A separate Prevention piece in November 2026 quoted Dr. Carmen Castilla on licking: "As saliva evaporates, it just further dries out your lips," she said. "It is a vicious cycle that you are not going to win." [2]
A heal fast routine (original)
Day
- Plain balm every couple of hours and after eating or drinking.
- Lip SPF before going outside.
- Drink water through the day.
Night
- Gently wipe lips clean.
- A thick layer of plain petroleum jelly or an ointment.
- Humidifier on.
Do not
- Peel or pick flakes.
- Scrub with sugar scrubs while they are cracked.
- Use plumping glosses, which often use irritants to create the "plump."
Most chapped lips get much better within a week of this.
Lipstick while your lips heal (original)
- Put balm on first and let it sink in for a few minutes.
- Pick creamy formulas over matte or long wear liquid lipsticks, which can dry lips.
- Blot instead of layering many coats.
- Take it off at night with an oil based remover, not by rubbing.
Check your toothpaste and skincare
Some people react to flavors in toothpaste or to face products that move onto the lips. If your lips stay sore and red only around the edges, try a plain toothpaste and keep strong face products away from the lip line.
When it is not just dry lips
Cracks at the corners that do not heal, lips that swell, sores that come back in the same spot, or a patch that changes or bleeds needs a proper check. These can be infections, allergies or other conditions that balm will not fix.
How to read a lip balm label (original)
- Look at the first few ingredients. Petrolatum, shea butter, mineral oil or dimethicone near the top is a good sign.
- Scan for menthol, camphor, eucalyptus, peppermint, cinnamon or "fragrance." Skip it if they are there.
- If it says "tingling" or "plumping," it is usually irritating.
- Tinted balms are fine if your lips do not sting with them.
FAQ
Does Vaseline really work? Plain petroleum jelly is on the AAD list of helpful ingredients. [1]
Are lip masks worth it? A plain ointment at night does the same job.
Can lips get sunburned? Yes. Dr. Pierre recommended a zinc based lip sunblock or a balm with SPF. [1]
Quick takeaway
The wrong balm can keep lips chapped. Skip menthol, camphor, fragrance and flavors.
Use plain balms with petrolatum, shea butter, ceramides or dimethicone.
Stop licking, picking and scrubbing.
Thick ointment at night and a humidifier speed healing.